Blog Post Three Tack Fit: what should you be looking for
If you think you might have a saddle fit issue it could stem from a multitude of reasons: the saddle itself, the horse, the rider, saddle pad, girth, wrong saddle for the work required. Looking at the saddle, the problem could be the tree width, wither clearance, tree angle, gullet size and/or panels. So its not simple.
Let’s first look at saddles, and then touch on bridles and bits. Somewhere you have heard that you should have your saddle checked by a professional fitter every 6 to 12 months. What are the reasons behind that?
English saddles rely on close contact and precise balance, making proper fit especially critical. For a properly fitting saddle, some of the important parts of the saddle for the horse are the saddle tree, the gullet, the panels and the girth billets.
The saddle tree is the inside frame that gives the saddle its shape. The saddle tree must match the horse’s back shape and wither width so that the saddle distributes the rider’s weight evenly. The size of the horse’s shoulders dictates the tree size; the wider the horse’s shoulders, the wider the tree needs to be. If the tree is too narrow, the shoulders can be pinched, resulting in a reluctance to go forward (imagine a too-tight shirt that makes moving more restricted), pressure points leading to potential sores from rubbing (and eventually leading to the growth of white hairs), and inflammation caused by the pinching. If there is long term inflammation, permanent changes can occur to the scapular cartilage (the top part of the shoulders). It can also develop into a hollowing in the muscle behind the shoulders, which is caused by muscle fiber death due to long-term pressure. This muscle damage can become permanent and should definitely result in getting a new saddle immediately.
If the tree is too wide, the spine will not have enough room to flex under the saddle. There should be 3 - 5 fingers-width of room between the top of the gullet (the channel that run underneath the saddle) and the horse’s spine, to allow for clearance when the spinus processes and musculature flex upwards.
The withers should also have 2 -3 fingers worth of clearance in the front of the saddle, under the pommel.
The saddle tree angle must be the same as the angle of the horse's shoulder, about 2 to 3 inches behind the back edge of the shoulder blade. With a rider in the saddle, the amount of pressure down through the saddle should be even from the top of the panel to the bottom, indicating that the tree angle is appropriate. Place a hand under each panel and run it down the length of the shoulder. The pressure on the hand should be equal from top to bottom. Make sure to test both the right and left side on the saddle.
Additionally there are panels, pillow sections, that flank each side of the spine (they also run down behind the shoulders as discussed above with the tree angle). The panels can have uneven contact with the horse’s back when they are improperly flocked or the horse has muscle atrophy or hypertrophy in that area. Bridging can occur when the panels do not evenly distribute the weight of the rider, so that there is less contact in the middle of the seat versus the front or back of the saddle. Rocking occurs when there is contact in the middle of the seat but not even contact in the front and back of the saddle.
The length of the saddle should never go beyond the 18th, and last, rib of the horse. Further back than that, the horse does not have the stability of the ribs to offset the weight of the saddle and rider. The horse’s back is too weak beyond the ribs to carry that weight.
Girth alignment: When the girth is in proper position in the girth groove, the girth billets should hang straight down and not angle forwards or back. If you are having problems with your saddle slipping forwards or back, check the girth alignment first, because your saddle will move until the billets hang straight down. This necessitates a saddle that has the proper aligned girth billets for the type of girth groove the horse (or pony) has or you will be need to have the girth points changed by a saddle fitter.
Poor saddle fit for the horse can lead to alteration in movement, soundness issues, an unwillingness to perform and ultimately to long-term resistance, resulting from muscle and skeletal changes. These issues can result in behavioral issues that are often misinterpreted as training problems.
While both English and Western disciplines have different styles of equipment, the underlying principle is the same: tack must match the individual horse’s anatomy. Horses vary widely in back shape, wither height, shoulder angle, and mouth conformation. A one-size-fits-all approach does not work. Regular fit checks are important, as a horse’s shape can change with age, conditioning, weight gain or loss, and changes in workload.
Correct saddle fit allows the horse to move freely, use their body correctly, and remain relaxed and responsive under the rider, allowing the horse’s shoulders to rotate freely and encourage correct engagement of the back.
Western Saddles
Western saddles distribute weight over a larger surface area and are designed for long hours of riding, but they are not forgiving of poor fit. The saddle tree is the foundation of fit; bar angle, bar length, and gullet width must all suit the horse’s back. A tree that is too narrow will pinch and create pressure points, while a tree that is too wide may sit too low and become unstable.
Because Western saddles are often heavier, problems may not be immediately obvious but can be just as damaging. Dry spots under the saddle, white hairs, or soreness after riding can indicate uneven pressure. Proper skirt length and bar contact are also important so that the saddle does not interfere with the horse’s loins or shoulders.
Other saddle issues are not specific to discipline: saddle leaning to one side or the other (could also be caused by rider imbalance), saddle moves forward or back, saddle pad/blanket “slips” out from under saddle. A note on saddle pads: if your saddle pad is too thick it could make a saddle that is well suited to your horses become one that has pressure points.
Please make sure that you palpate your horse’s saddle area before you saddle, every time. This will give you a baseline level of pain and let you know if there are any changes.
Girths
Girth galls or cinch sores are areas of hair loss, scabs, weeping wounds that can be hot, uncomfortable spots that the girth or cinch rub over. Could be due to the saddle is not in the correct position on the horse’s back (perhaps too far forward and rubbing against the “armpits”), girth sitting in the wrong spot, the wrong girth shape for the girth groove, the material being abrasive to the horse’s skin. If your horse develops a girth gall, call your vet and do not put any more equipment in that area (no girth, no surcingle, etc).
English and Western Bridles and Bit Fit
Bridle fit is just as important as saddle fit, particularly when it comes to the bit.
The horse’s mouth is a relatively small space that contains the tongue, bars (the toothless portion of the lower jaw), teeth, and the palate. A bit that is too narrow in length will pinch the corners of the horse’s lips, causing pain and possible sores. A bit that is too long can slide excessively from side to side, reducing clarity of communication and potentially banging against the teeth. Thickness also matters: a bit that is too thick may crowd the horse’s mouth, especially in horses with a low palate, while a bit that is too thin can concentrate pressure too sharply on the tongue and bars.
Thickness plays a major role in comfort. While thicker bits are often described as "milder," this is not universally true. In a horse with a fleshy tongue and low palate, a thick bit can crowd the mouth, leaving little room for the tongue to sit comfortably. When rein pressure is applied, the bit may press upward into the palate or compress the tongue excessively, leading to head tossing, gaping, or resistance. Conversely, a very thin bit concentrates pressure onto a smaller surface area of the bars and tongue, which can feel sharp or severe if used with heavy hands. Proper bit fit allows the horse to carry the bit quietly, chew softly, and respond calmly to the rider’s aids without resistance or anxiety. Observing how the horse carries the bit, chews, salivates, and responds to contact provides valuable feedback about fit.
Tack Fit Checklist for Riders and Owners
Check wither and spinal clearance before and after mounting.
Ensure even contact along the panels or bars without dry spots after riding.
Look for white hairs, swelling, soreness, or behavioral changes.
Confirm the bit width allows slight clearance without pinching.
Assess whether the bit thickness suits the horse’s tongue and palate space.
Reevaluate fit after conditioning changes, weight fluctuation, or muscle development.
In conclusion, proper tack fit is not a luxury but a necessity for every horse, regardless of discipline. Saddles and bridles that fit correctly promote comfort, trust, and longevity, while poorly fitted equipment can undermine even the best training. Taking the time to assess fit, seek professional guidance when needed, and adjust equipment as the horse changes is one of the most important responsibilities of any rider or owner.
